Spiritual Quest

Straying away from the medical work, I have to mention 2 highlighted days during my stay there. Mainly for the reason that one cannot avoid mentioning religion during their stay in the Khumbu Valley. And also because I am a strong believer that different religions are different paths to the same destination… though a Hindu, I have great respect for Buddhism. Here in the Khumbu valley, in every task and every trek one takes, religion takes great priority.

Its also a perfect time to also thank the Gods of this valley for protecting Kumaran during his ascent and summit at Everest today. May his descent be just as safe!!!

Ancient Tibetan scriptures on the stones. Usually found along paths and at the entrance to each village

One has to always walk on the right of mani walls & prayer flags.
The path always splits into 2 around mani walls.
Apparently, it aids to test the concentration of the walker.

Right, so the first highlight is a Friday 11^th May when we decided to walk to Tengboche. The day itself had a spiritual start. Apparently it was an important day in the calendar and the gompa (monastery) idols were being brought around the villages.

At the start of the day we ran into a friend who brought us to visit Lama Geishe, a very powerful and renowned Lama. We both received blessings from him.  Most climbers will stop enroute to get their blessings from Lama Geishe. Walls of his room are filled with pictures of those who had received his blessings and summited.

Lama Geishe's blessings

Tengboche Monastery

We then walked to Tengboche monastery.  It’s a pleasant 1-hour walk with beautiful views of Ama Dablam. I kept stopping just to absorb the amazing views of Ama Dablam.

Stupa with Ama Dablam in the background

I couldn't stop snapping- Ama Dablam was simply breath taking

It is located on a hill at the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and Imja Khola rivers. It is enroute on the Everest Base Camp trail. (we had missed it earlier as we went on a different trail) Hence visited by most trekkers. It was first built in 1916 but then got rebuilt after an earthquake in 1934 and then in 1989 after a fire.

Ancient Tibetan scriptures described Khumbu valley, together with Rowlang and Khanbalung valleys as sacred places. (not surprising, considering the beauty of Khumbu). Tengboche gompa was found by Lama Gulu, with the blessings of Ngawang Tenzin Norbu (considered the 5^th incarnation of Lama Sangwa Dorje who founded Pangboche monastery). It is also closely related to Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet (on the Northern face of Everest)

Footprints of Sangwa Dorje

Always turn it in a clockwise direction

The village and the monastery are splendidly beautiful. Sitting in front of the large Buddha, in the Khumbu Valley, one is reminded how small we are in the grand scheme of things in this universe.

Back in Pangboche

When we returned that evening, we learnt that the villagers were awaiting the return of the idols to the gompa. So we waited with them. Finally we heard chantings and ‘dongs’ around dinnertime. We scrambled to the gompa and were ushered to the 2^nd floor, where we found ourselves seated with the villagers. We waited for the elaborate prayers and instead found that we were being served food. The guy next to us asked me if I was the foreign doctor in town. We took the opportunity to find out what was happening. Apparently, prayers were over and now; they were serving food as well as tea and chang (the local equivalent of beer… in the monastery!!! We were also served buff, yak meat.. in the monastery!!!!) We ended up having dinner in the gompa.

Pangboche Monastery- one of the oldest in Khumbu

It was a memorable moment, sitting with the vllagers, having daal baat and tea. It was priceless. The cohesiveness and spirit of the village was impressive. Each year, a group of families are picked to host this special event… hence the food and drinks will be prepared by them. It reminded me of home… being served food in the temple after Friday prayers. (minus the beer and meat of course)

The Sunday of 20^th May, just like the previous Friday turned out to be a spiritual day.  As Kumaran was supposed to start his summit push that night, I thought I would pay Guru Rinpoche a visit. In Pangboche, there is a main gompa housing Guru Rinpoche- it is most well known to trekkers passing by. It is one of the oldest gompa in Khumbu, found by Lama Sangwa Dorje.

Guru Rinpoche and Ama Dablam in the background

What many don’t know is that there is another huge Guru Rinpoche sitting on a hill above the whole village of  Pangboche. It is right next to the ‘Pangboche Human School’ (which is actually a school set up by the Koreans.)

Guru Rinpoche

Anyhow, the temple housing the Guru is half completed. But upon setting foot in his vicinity, one cannot deny the feeling of peace and serenity in his magnificent presence. An enlightening place indeed. With the great mountains on my right, the bronze statue in front of me and the strong winds blowing the prayer flags, everything fell into place. I’m sure the climbers will be safe…

The great mountains in the background

Ama Dablam

The day went by. As I was about to have dinner, the lodge owner, Jima commented on how many of her friends have been visiting her.  When I asked her why, I believe she said something about it being a special day where people are here to place lights in the temple. (btw, communication between me and  her has been the most interesting as she speaks minimal English and I can only say pain and thank you in Sherpa language! But I have learnt one doesn’t need language to understand a person’s life story... this story shall be for another chapter)

Anyway, she brought me to the gompa, where we met Lama Panju who brought out a whole row of butter lamps to light up. It was just us 3 in the Gomba. I still have yet to find out the significance of that day in the Buddhist calendar.

There is something very special, spiritual and rustic about the village of Pangboche indeed… or maybe it is the Khumbu Valley itself.....