Phortse Sherpa

This article strikes a cord from within, for various reasons. I was living with Pemba's family in 2012 at the Namaste lodge in Phortse. While running the clinic in Phortse, Kumaran was climbing Mt Everest and so was Pemba.

Both his parents and I were anxiously waiting for the return of our loved ones.

The feeling is familiar.... the fear, the anxiety, the uncertainty...

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2015/04/150410-Everest-climbing-sherpas-mountaineering-Nepal-Himalayas-guides/?rptregcta=reg_free_np&rptregcampaign=2015012_invitation_ro_all#

Furthermore, this articles describes much of what I was trying to write on my blog about the life of the sherpa people.

Khumbu trail

Special people of Khumbu

It is hard to believe that only this time last week, I was at Gorkha village with Kumaran, Mr Krishnan and the amazing teachers and students of Saraswoti High School. We completed the 3rd and final task of our journey and returned back to Singapore on 2nd June. Finally getting some time to update on our journey.

There is so much to share,  I don't know where to start. Perhaps explaining the events of the past few weeks in chronological order might be a good idea.

My last ramble was about the clinic I ran in Pangboche. This post will be dedicated to a special person I met on this trip.... and how she made me see that difference in language, ethnicity and culture do not stand as barriers to integrating into a community. A person's warmth and positive personality alone is sufficient for one to feel at home in an alien community.


Throughout the trip, I had been traveling alone (except for the journey to base camp). Though language can be an issue, I didn't have much problem as the people I always lived with spoke a little English. Except for in Pangboche.

View of Pangboche

My residence

This is a dedication to Jima. She is the owner of Gomba lodge in Pangboche. I was recommended to live there as it is close to the clinic.

When I met her, I realized that her helper Kanji and her can’t speak much English. However, she understood that I was a doctor at the health post. 

Kanji on the right and Jima on the left

During my 2 weeks stay there, I learnt that knowledge of a common language is not necessary to understand where someone has been and what they have been through. From the pictures in the lodge, I had the impression that her husband was well known in the community. His name was Namkha Sherpa and he was a Himalayan Rescue Association medical assistant for over 20 years. Hanging in the lodge were many certificates of appreciation as well as photos of many merry times.

 

Pictures paint a thousand words- her life with her husband appeared rich and colourful. I later found out that they used to be very prominent people in the community and everyone liked her husband and her. However her husband passed away a year ago and she runs the lodge alone. She has 3 children, 1 of whom is residing in America with her family. She then excitedly showed me a photo album of her daughter in America. However, she has not been to America before, for the reason that it is ‘Big money’ (in her words).

As there were no other lodgers during my stay there, every night, I ended up having dinner with them in their cosy, warm kitchen, where I got to try their food. (which was usually potato in all different forms) I would be reading on my laptop while she and Kanji would be cooking or looking at my photographs on the laptop. Whenever she saw my parents’ photograph, she would say, ’Awww!!! Good people’ which just makes me smile to myself. Though we couldn’t hold a full conversation, her warmth and chirpiness was contagious. Through pictures, we both learnt a lot about each other and shared a part of our lives.

My hangout- the kitchen

Then one day she brings out this plastic bag filled with wires and a small laptop. She said someone gave it to her husband. She also said her husband was very smart and could speak both English and Japanese, while she can’t even speak English. I laughed and told her that her English is better than my Sherpa or Nepalese.

Anyway, that was the start of our after dinner documentary sessions. In the laptop, there was an array of pictures, documentaries, American dramas and cartoons.

Our after dinner movie sessions

I made the mistake of showing them an episode of Family Guy (thinking that a cartoon might be entertaining) However it is the episode where Meg likes Brian. She kidnaps him and strips to her undergarments to seduce him. The horrified look on their face was alarming. I decided not to show them Family Guy again.

On the laptop, I also discovered BBC planet documentaries on various natural landscapes (jungle, mountain, ocean, snow, dessert) Kanji and Jima loved it! These sights and sounds were new to them. (I also got to learn the names of some animals in Nepalese too!) They would watch at least 2 documentaries a night!!

It was their entertainment every night after dinner. And each night, a different friend would be invited to watch the documentary. Eventually on my last night, Lama Penju (the local monk) was invited for dinner and a dose of BBC documentary. Jima was really excited about inviting the Lama for dinner and elaborate preparations were made beforehand.

Lama Panju of Pangboche

I tried to teach her how to operate the laptop in my absence so that she is still able to watch the documentaries. However, it was a challenging task indeed- when not only it’s a 65-year-old lady’s first time using a laptop, she couldn’t read English either. I managed to teach her the basics.

Jima practicing on the laptop. I do hope my lessons have helped.

Leaving her the next day was unexpectedly sad. Her warmth, simplicity, generosity, kindness and chirpiness was beyond what we spoke. She didn’t even count the cash when I gave it to her. She presented me with a Katar (white scarf given in respect and appreciation by the Sherpa people). I hugged her and we said our goodbyes. I know I would return to Khumbu one day in the late future… but am not sure if I’ll see her again. My heart felt heavy as I left Pangboche….. 

Spiritual Quest

Straying away from the medical work, I have to mention 2 highlighted days during my stay there. Mainly for the reason that one cannot avoid mentioning religion during their stay in the Khumbu Valley. And also because I am a strong believer that different religions are different paths to the same destination… though a Hindu, I have great respect for Buddhism. Here in the Khumbu valley, in every task and every trek one takes, religion takes great priority.

Its also a perfect time to also thank the Gods of this valley for protecting Kumaran during his ascent and summit at Everest today. May his descent be just as safe!!!

Ancient Tibetan scriptures on the stones. Usually found along paths and at the entrance to each village

One has to always walk on the right of mani walls & prayer flags.
The path always splits into 2 around mani walls.
Apparently, it aids to test the concentration of the walker.

Right, so the first highlight is a Friday 11^th May when we decided to walk to Tengboche. The day itself had a spiritual start. Apparently it was an important day in the calendar and the gompa (monastery) idols were being brought around the villages.

At the start of the day we ran into a friend who brought us to visit Lama Geishe, a very powerful and renowned Lama. We both received blessings from him.  Most climbers will stop enroute to get their blessings from Lama Geishe. Walls of his room are filled with pictures of those who had received his blessings and summited.

Lama Geishe's blessings

Tengboche Monastery

We then walked to Tengboche monastery.  It’s a pleasant 1-hour walk with beautiful views of Ama Dablam. I kept stopping just to absorb the amazing views of Ama Dablam.

Stupa with Ama Dablam in the background

I couldn't stop snapping- Ama Dablam was simply breath taking

It is located on a hill at the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and Imja Khola rivers. It is enroute on the Everest Base Camp trail. (we had missed it earlier as we went on a different trail) Hence visited by most trekkers. It was first built in 1916 but then got rebuilt after an earthquake in 1934 and then in 1989 after a fire.

Ancient Tibetan scriptures described Khumbu valley, together with Rowlang and Khanbalung valleys as sacred places. (not surprising, considering the beauty of Khumbu). Tengboche gompa was found by Lama Gulu, with the blessings of Ngawang Tenzin Norbu (considered the 5^th incarnation of Lama Sangwa Dorje who founded Pangboche monastery). It is also closely related to Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet (on the Northern face of Everest)

Footprints of Sangwa Dorje

Always turn it in a clockwise direction

The village and the monastery are splendidly beautiful. Sitting in front of the large Buddha, in the Khumbu Valley, one is reminded how small we are in the grand scheme of things in this universe.

Back in Pangboche

When we returned that evening, we learnt that the villagers were awaiting the return of the idols to the gompa. So we waited with them. Finally we heard chantings and ‘dongs’ around dinnertime. We scrambled to the gompa and were ushered to the 2^nd floor, where we found ourselves seated with the villagers. We waited for the elaborate prayers and instead found that we were being served food. The guy next to us asked me if I was the foreign doctor in town. We took the opportunity to find out what was happening. Apparently, prayers were over and now; they were serving food as well as tea and chang (the local equivalent of beer… in the monastery!!! We were also served buff, yak meat.. in the monastery!!!!) We ended up having dinner in the gompa.

Pangboche Monastery- one of the oldest in Khumbu

It was a memorable moment, sitting with the vllagers, having daal baat and tea. It was priceless. The cohesiveness and spirit of the village was impressive. Each year, a group of families are picked to host this special event… hence the food and drinks will be prepared by them. It reminded me of home… being served food in the temple after Friday prayers. (minus the beer and meat of course)

The Sunday of 20^th May, just like the previous Friday turned out to be a spiritual day.  As Kumaran was supposed to start his summit push that night, I thought I would pay Guru Rinpoche a visit. In Pangboche, there is a main gompa housing Guru Rinpoche- it is most well known to trekkers passing by. It is one of the oldest gompa in Khumbu, found by Lama Sangwa Dorje.

Guru Rinpoche and Ama Dablam in the background

What many don’t know is that there is another huge Guru Rinpoche sitting on a hill above the whole village of  Pangboche. It is right next to the ‘Pangboche Human School’ (which is actually a school set up by the Koreans.)

Guru Rinpoche

Anyhow, the temple housing the Guru is half completed. But upon setting foot in his vicinity, one cannot deny the feeling of peace and serenity in his magnificent presence. An enlightening place indeed. With the great mountains on my right, the bronze statue in front of me and the strong winds blowing the prayer flags, everything fell into place. I’m sure the climbers will be safe…

The great mountains in the background

Ama Dablam

The day went by. As I was about to have dinner, the lodge owner, Jima commented on how many of her friends have been visiting her.  When I asked her why, I believe she said something about it being a special day where people are here to place lights in the temple. (btw, communication between me and  her has been the most interesting as she speaks minimal English and I can only say pain and thank you in Sherpa language! But I have learnt one doesn’t need language to understand a person’s life story... this story shall be for another chapter)

Anyway, she brought me to the gompa, where we met Lama Panju who brought out a whole row of butter lamps to light up. It was just us 3 in the Gomba. I still have yet to find out the significance of that day in the Buddhist calendar.

There is something very special, spiritual and rustic about the village of Pangboche indeed… or maybe it is the Khumbu Valley itself..... 

Mount Everest Sherpas

3 sherpas have died so far in this 2012 Mt Everest expedition. The first had premorbidities such as liver cirrhosis. The cause of death is presumed to be altitude sickness. The 2^nd was from an accident in the Khumbu icefall and the 3^rd, just recently, after being rescued to Kathmandu by a helicopter (we are still unsure about the cause of death)

The 3^rd death is close to home as he is from the village of Phortse. 2 days ago whilst in the clinic, I first received news that a Phortse Sherpa was being rescued from Everest by a helicopter to Kathmandu and was admitted in the ICU. Throughout the day, tension built up in the village. Though I can’t fully understand the Sherpa language, their body language and creases on their faces gave away the anxiety. Just a few hours ago, we had a helter skelter of people, reporting the man had passed away in Kathmandu.  A cloud of gloom hangs over the village. A deep sorrow overwhelms me for this stranger I have never met. All I know is that he is between 30 and 40 and has 2 very young children.

Nearly every house has a son, husband or father on the Mount Everest Expedition. There is a baseline level of anxiety during the expedition period. Though the sherpas are renowned for their strength, agility and adaptability on the mountains, the amount of danger they are exposed to is much more than the foreign climbers. Worse still, for them, these expeditions are a matter of necessity as it is their source of income. For the foreign climbers there is no necessity factor!

Sherpas on expedition

Once on an expedition, the sherpas guide, transport supplies, set up campsites and fix ropes between the camps on the route to the summit of Mt Everest. In these days there are 4 camps between the base camp and the summit. These sherpas will have to make repeated trips up and between the camps, which means they are constantly exposed to the dangerous terrain of the mountain. (also crossing the Khumbu icefalls numerous times, where the highest no. of deaths ensues) The number of times the foreign climbers have to go up are limited to avoid exposure to dangerous situations…such that they go up a sufficient number of times to acclimatize.

While Kumaran is climbing Everest with IMG, the Sherpa family I live with, have a son on the same team too. As one can imagine, there is some level of anxiety in the house. 

2012 Everest Climbing season

From what we have heard so far, it appears that the weather has been rather dry, which results in the rock being loose.  This has been a source of accidents and worry. A new route has been fixed up to camp 3, which appears to be safer. The winds have also been very strong and unfavourable. Hopefully the weather improves this coming week.

The lure of Everest

What makes one want to climb Everest? George Mallory climbed it because, ‘It is there’. (which to me seems like a pompous reason).  During Edmund Hillary’s and Tenzing Norgay summit, the British team tried to coincide the summit day with with the birthday of the Queen. (However, the New Zealander and Nepalese summited on 29^th May 1953) If anything, perhaps people take pride in saying they have summited Mount Everest.

The views along the treks here are magnificent. I’m not sure how much energy one can afford to expend in appreciating the views and taking photos at the summit, amidst the exhaustion & hypoxia.

Well, this sport has in some ways benefitted the population of the Khumbu region. It has brought tourism and income to the people. It has also resulted in their children being educated overseas (as some of the climbers have sponsored the education of the children). However, this has placed some pressure on the people- when 2 sherpas go on similar expeditions and only 1 get extra benefits, unhappiness ensues.

When Tenzing’s son, Jamling wanted to climb Everest at a young age, his father said he climbed Everest so that his children won’t have to. Essentially he did go on to climb Everest in 1996 because he wanted to experience what his father did… and wrote a book, ‘Touching my father’s soul: A sherpa’s journey to the top of Everest’. It is an amazing book  which explains why he climbed and what happened in the 1996 tragic incident. But most importantly, it was written from the sherpa’s point of view and had a good spiritual aspect to it, which is hard to come by in mountaineering books.

Lets just hope this season improves….. 

Helicopter rescues in Khumbu

After witnessing a few helicopter rescues, and being involved in one, I have learnt a bit about the system which surprises me to some extent. There is a very low threshold to evacuate tourists visiting this region, which makes sense, considering the array of problems that can be faced in such harsh conditions.

Evacuating a tourist to Kathmandu

However, when it comes to the locals, who may have to be evacuated to Kathmandu for even lifesaving treatment (due to limitations in the hospital), they have to bear the local cost, which for many, is a lifetime worth of savings! Perhaps a helicopter for the locals may be of great benefit! 

I also learnt that a large proportion of the permit to climb Mt Everest (around USD10000) goes to Kathmandu's office, not the National Park itself or to the sherpa people. However, many of the basic necessities I have seen in this region  so far (electricity, schools, healthcare) bear the name of overseas sponsors. (The Austrians set up the hydroelectric power station and is maintained by the Sherpa people, Khumjung school was set up by the Edmund Hillary Foundation). 

A large number of people pay to climb Everest each year- an income from a year of climbing may be able to support a helicopter for the local population. Just a thought...

Khumbu healthcare system

Finally having good internet connection! A bit about my experience last week…

On my first day at Kunde Hospital, I was faced with a patient carried on a stretcher. The patient was being carried from a nearby village, which is about 2 hours walk for me (mainly uphill). My heart sank when I saw the stretcher from afar as the other doctor wasn’t on site that afternoon and it was my 1^st day!!! (I found out today that the stretcher used was the one we had donated)

Thankfully, I was with the hospital assistants who were amazing. She was carried in, writhing in pain, mainly around the abdomen and back. With the electronic machine, her pressure measured 70/35. Immediately the intravenous fluids went up. However, a repeat reading on the traditional manual machine was slightly reassuring at 90/50. The young lady turned out to have pyelonephritis (UTI leading to infection of the kidneys). I admitted her to the inpatient ward and she recovered well with intravenous antibiotics. Her blood pressure remained low thoughout though.  I found out from the local doctor that people of their races tend to have lower blood pressures. Right.. enough of medical anecdotes and a bit about the Kunde Hospital! 

About Kunde

Sir Edmund Hillary set up Kunde Hospital in 1966. It was inititally run by volunteer doctors from overseas for periods of 2 years. Eventually, a local doctor from the village nearby took over and he has been in charge for many years. 2 doctors, a healthcare assistant, a lab technician, a midwife, a cook and helper run the hospital. It is still funded by the Edmund Hillary Fund.

At the hospital, we can do simple blood tests and x-rays. Simple minor surgery can be done too (such as toilet and suture). Major surgical cases are flown out to Kathmandu on a helicopter. (Which costs a bomb for the locals). However, the rate of appendicitis and emergency caesarean section is low and has not been a problem.

Located at an altitude of 3840m 

View from the hospital

One of the bigger problems is gastritis. Last night we had another patient brought in on a stretcher from a village 3 hours walk away with haematemesis (vomiting blood). I did find out from the doctor that the incidence of H. Pylori is high even among the young people.

Kunde Hospital has been very successful with their immunization, family planning, antenatal and iodine therapy programs.  The main mode of family planning is the depot- most have 2-3 children. I haven’t seen any goiters and most ladies who need an elective caesarean head down to Kathmandu early in the pregnancy.

Partial thickness burn on the face. Ideally, he should immediately be transferred to a Burns Unit. But we don't have such luxury here. We have been dressing the wound and preventing it from being infected. He has done well.

The problem- It is the only hospital that covers a large area though. The furthest village is about 5 hours walk away (full of upslopes and downslopes) I find it hard enough carrying myself on these slope. I don’t know how they manage to carry the patient on a stretcher on this terrain!!!

Each village has a health post, which is run by a health worker, who does very basic medical care.  We have been helping to train these health care workers and promote health education, such as simple first aid, safe delivery at home, maternal health and children health and hygiene.

While at Kunde, I had the chance to learn more about the healthcare system in the Khumbu region. Working with the local doctor, I had a chance to understand more about the common medical ailments, the people’s attitude towards healthcare and areas of health education that lack in the villages.

From Kunde, I walked over to Thame (about 3 hrs walk West of Kunde). There I had a chance to meet their health worker and stay in the local doctor’s lodge. However, I forgot to visit Tenzing Norgay’s house!!!

View from the monastery of Thame Valley

Thame Valley- near the passes to Tibet 

I’m back in Phortse, where I’ll continue running the clinic and promote health education among the villagers. I will be heading to the nearby village of Pangboche in a couple of days. 

The journey to Everest Base Camp

Day 16 in Nepal. I have finally reached the Phortse clinic after Everest Base Camp. As most people have commented, EBC is not as spectacular as one makes it out to be. For a start, one can’t really see Everest from the base camp (except for the western shoulder of the mountain). 

Kala Patthar is a way better site to view Everest from, on a good day. Kala Patthar means black rock in Hindi, for obvious reasons as it appears as a black hill standing on Gorak Shep, just beneath the south face of Pumori. Many climb it to catch sunrise or sunset where the views of Mt Everest is magnificent. 5545m tall, we climbed it to catch sunrise. Never underestimate any mountain was what I learnt. From Gorak Shep, I thought it looked like Bukit Timah Hill… however, it was a steep never ending incline up to the summit. The views were worth the cold winds though.

View of Mt Everest from Kala Patthar

This is my journey so far

Lukla- Phakding- Namche- Phortse- Periche- Lobuche- EBC

EBC- Periche- Phortse

As we walked to EBC, we met loads and loads of trekkers and climbers heading in the same direction. It almost felt like we were part of a carnival heading to the same funfair. I half expected to see balloons, cotton candy and game stands at EBC.

The sight I was greeted with was close to that… full of colourful tents., each belonging to a different trekking company. The campsite was huge and sophisticated. IMG campsite (where I was) was very impressive indeed, with their dining room, bathroom, makeshift toilets, charging tents and communication tents.

I stayed at EBC for 4 nights and that was an experience I’ll never forget. I got to finally have a shower (It felt like a spa as the bathroom was a tent built on the rocks.. and during daytime, it traps the heat from the sun, keeping the inside warm. However, the amazing experience was cut short when the bucket ran out of water just after I soaped) I got to finally wash my cloths (which turned hard the next day as they froze… and thawing them meant that the tent got wet)

I managed to watch the pooja, which is done for the safety of climbers and sherpas. Incidentally it fell on the same day as the Indian New Year. An emotional moment indeed- as it meant this is it for the climbers… their stint to summit Everest begins! All the best to the climbers!

And now I am finally back in Phortse. The porter who accompanied me only had slippers on. I tried to ask him how he did it.. only to realise he doesn't speak any English, except say 'Ok'.

The most interesting thing he asked me was 'This Phortse?' at the top of the village. (his task was to lead me to the village btw) I thanked Kumaran for having introduced me to the village earlier on....or I may have just followed him without realising that we have passed our destination.